Builder Frequently Asked Questions
Best practice for controlling PVC trim expansion and contraction.
We recommend using screws versus nails spaced a maximum of 16” o.c. and when possible gluing the board to the substrate. It is also important to use enough nails across the board width. See detail below and technical bulletin #C-2.
Does VERSATEX trim require painting?
VERSATEX does not require painting to validate the warranty but like any product it will weather over time and will eventually need to be painted.
Does it require a primer?
A primer is only needed to receive the paint manufacturer’s warranty. Excellent adhesion can be achieved with the application of a top coat to VERSATEX.
What type of paint do you recommend for coating VERSATEX trim?
100% acrylic latex or 100% acrylic latex with a urethane additive should be used to achieve superior coating durability and flexibility. Lacquers are not recommended with VERSATEX because lacquers are a more brittle coating and will not flex with any movement in the VERSATEX trim. Paints like Duration by Sherwin Williams, Manor Hall paints by PPG and Moorlife by Bejamine Moore adhere well to VERSATEX. Paint companies will tell you that paint on VERSATEX will last five times longer than paints on wood or wood composites due to the absence of moisture in the substrate.
What preparation steps should be followed before painting VERSATEX trim?
Follow the paint manufacturer’s preparation steps. To ensure good adhesion, the surface of the product should be clean, dry and free of dirt, mildew, chalk, grease and any other surface contaminants before paint application. Keep in mind that cellular PVC may have a static charge on the surface of the product which tends to attract dust. Cleaning can be accomplished using a cloth and a mixture of a mild detergent and water (Spic N’ Span). Other cleaning agents include mild household cleaners, degreasers, or denatured alcohol (preferred) for more stubborn stains. Prior to cleaning it is a good practice to fill all nail holes and remove any marks or blemishes that appear during the installation process. Sanding the surface is an acceptable method of removing blemishes. However, sanding the original exterior surface will expose the micro cell structure.
Can VERSATEX trim be painted dark colors?
Only light to medium colored paints with a light reflective value of 55 units or greater should be applied to VERSATEX. Using a paint with a LRV below 55 units will void our products warranty. Don’t assume the paint is a light color. Too many times we have had cases where contractors believe the paint they used was a light beige only to find out it had a LRV in the 20’s or 30’s.
Why not?
Dark colors absorb the UV rays from the sun causing a heat build up in the trim. The higher the temperature of the trim the greater the expansion. Excessive heat absorption could lead to heat distortion of the board or sheet which occurs at or around 155F in all cellular PVC trim products.
Are there any other options available to me?
Possibly, some companies like Sherwin Williams, Benjamine Moore and Blue River Coatings have developed heat reflective paint systems; Consult these paint manufacturers to determine the available color pallet and the paints compatibility with VERSATEX cellular PVC trim. You can find their website at www.versatex.com under the heading Resources. Just click industry links.
What is the best fastening system for VERSATEX PVC trim?
The best overall system for securing VERSATEX trim is the Cortex concealed fastening system. It combines the advantages of using a screw (strong connection) with the VERSATEX tapered plug that fits into the hole created by the screw eliminating the need for unsightly fillers or sealants to fill the nail holes.
What if I want to use a nail rather than a screw. What are my options for filling the nail holes?
A methyl methacrylate, such as VERSATEX’s Fill N’ Fasten is a good but expensive nail hole filler. It is also an excellent adhesive. Its advantages over other nail hole filler is that it creates a structural bond to VERSATEX, is very hard once it has cured and is a close color match to VERSATEX. The down side is it is a two component product that has a working time of about 18 to 20 minutes and can shrink about 10%. This nail hole filler does not have to be painted for protection. Be sure to use a methyl methacrylate with a UV inhibitor. Other nail hole fillers that perform well but require painting are DAP’s Crack Shot high performance paste DAP Fast n’ Final Lightweight Spackling, Dyna Patch by Dynamic, and caulkings like NPC Solar Seal #900 (Trimboard White 111), and Quad by OSI.
Do you recommend nails or screws for fastening VERSATEX trim? If screws vs. nails, why?
We recommend screws over nails because screws help to limit thermal movement of the trim. However, if you do use nails use a 12 gage, 316 stainless steel nail with annular threads or a combination of annular threads and ring shank. Swan Secure makes a couple of great nails for VERSATEX.
Do you recommend gluing a PVC trim fascia board to the wooden sub fascia?
We do. It is just one more step in minimizing or reducing thermal movement in the VERSATEX trim. Products for gluing VERSATEX to wood include Liquid Nails Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive and Liquid Nails Sub Floor Adhesive.
Does VERSATEX require pre-drilling before fastening?
Pre-drilling typically is not required unless large diameter fasteners are used (not recommended) or the product is installed during low temperatures, typically below 40°F. See Technical Bulletin C-2, VERSATEX Fastening Ideas, for more information on this subject.
Do you recommend all joints be glued or should we leave a caulked joint(s) to allow for product movement?
We recommend the highly visible joints be glued and other joints act as expansion joints with a backer rod and sealant (preferably NPC Solar Seal #900). Another method used by some contractors is a shiplap on the edges of the boards on a long fascia run. This allows for product movement while never exposing the substrate or house wrap.
What is the best glue for joining two pieces of VERSATEX trim? What is the best glue for bonding PVC trim to wood? To metal?
We recommend a PVC pipe glue with solvent for bonding the ends of VERSATEX boards to themselves (Weld-On 705 or Weld On 4052 by IPS, Trim Tight by Trim Glue, Inc.) or better yet VERSATEX Fill N’ Fasten whenever you are bonding a scarf or miter cut (window surround) or even sheets of VERSATEX. For bonding to wood we recommend Liquid Nails Sub-Floor Adhesive or Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive. For VERSATEX to metal we suggest Fill N’ Fasten. There are three types of Fill N’ Fasten. Slow and Fast Cure for field joints and small glue ups and Fill N’ Fasten Laminating grade for sheet glue ups.
How do you recommend VERSATEX trim be secured to masonry?
We recommend the masonry be troweled with an adhesive first to provide a level/plumb service to accept the board/sheet and the trim secured with Tapcon masonry fasteners.
Can I use just glue or do I have to use glue in combination with fasteners?
You should use a combination of glue and mechanical fasteners. The glue is not enough to insure a long term bond.
VERSATEX trim is more expensive than finger jointed pine and composite wood trims. Is it worth the price? Do you have a life cycle cost analysis that shows the benefits of PVC trim versus wood over an extended period of time?
VERSATEX offers a 30 year warranty transferrable to the second homeowner. Unlike wood or wood composites that at typically wrapped with trim coil and require periodic painting and sealing to protect them from the elements, VERSATEX Trimboards do not require any special protection for the weather and will last a lifetime.
What is the compressive strength of VERSATEX trim?
When tested in accordance with ASTM D 695, VERSATEX trim achieved ultimate compressive strength values between 1500 psi to 5000 psi depending on the product thickness.
Can Versatex PVC trim be heat bent?
Yes.
What is the best method for heat bending VERSATEX trim the hard way (across the board width) if you don’t want to cut an arch from a piece of sheet?
Assuming you don’t have a 20 foot oven or a dealer who can bend the boards for you, we suggest you consider building the following system in the field. Take pieces of duct pipe long enough to contain your longest board and insulate them. Place a “Y” piece on one end and a flue on the other. To keep the board flat so it does not take the shape of the duct pipe we recommend a grating be placed in the duct pipe to support the piece of VERSATEX trim. To monitor temperature place a meat thermometer through the sidewall of the duct pipe. Place two torpedo heaters one at each “Y” section and blow heat into the pipe until the VERSATEX trim reaches a temperature of 280°F to 300°F. Hold this temperature for roughly 20 minutes making sure the VERSATEX trim has had the chance to soak in the heat. If the heated piece crimps or resists bending anywhere along the edge it is still too cold at least in that spot. Bending is an art and requires trial and error before you become proficient. All cellular PVC trims bend although they may require slightly different temperature profiles to get the perfect bend. See Technical Bulletin #A-1 and A-2 on our website for more information.
Can I rip a 3/8” or 1/2” VERSATEX sheets into boards and use them as a fascia provided I have a solid wood fascia? What is the recommended method of attaching this thin board to the sub fascia?
Although not recommended, some contractors have ripped ½” and 3/8” sheet for use as a fascia trim. However in all cases there has been a structural sub fascia to which the ½” or 3/8” fascia board has been fully glued and fastened (screwed or nailed).
When using VERSATEX trim as a column wrap over a treated 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 can I fasten the column wrap directly to the treated member?
You should not attach the VERSATEX column wrap directly to the treated column post. These posts are typically wet from pressure treating and when they dry they have a tendency to twist. This twisting action can and typically will cause the miter or butt joints on the column wrap to open up.
What is the best practice when using VERSATEX trim as a column wrap?
Provide a gap between the structural columns or post and the VERSATEX column wrap. Also, secure them in such a way that the two move independently of one another.
Can I use the VERSATEX Stealth trim system with Fiber Cement sidings or any composite siding without voiding their warranty?
Yes, Stealth is an approved trim system with these siding products. Stealth trims not only improves the overall aesthetic value of the finished product but also helps you meet certain installation criteria such as keeping the siding six inches (6”) above grade (Stealth Skirtboard) or two inches off a roof line.
Does VERSATEX burn?
No. Cellular PVC will not support combustion and will only burn when in direct contact with a flame source. It also carries with it a flame spread rating of less than 25 giving it a Class “A” fire rating when used in an exterior application.
Any suggestions on what to do to exposed edges or exposed cells once VERSATEX has been cut, routed or milled?
There are a couple of methods used by contractors and OEM’s to seal the exposed cells on VERSATEX Trim. One technique is to wipe the exposed area with a solvent such as acetone or toluene. Solvents tend to soften or melt the cells sealing them from dust and dirt. Another technique is to sand the exposed cells with a very fine 320 to 360 grit sand paper and then paint the area. The fine sanding reduces the cell size allowing better paint coverage.
Does VERSATEX exterior trim require special code approval?
No. However, VERSATEX recieved its Code Compliance Reasearch Report #CCRR-0149 from Architectural Testing this year. The report is applicable to all lengths and widths of VERSATEX trimoards, sheets, cornerboards, Stealth Trim profiles, beadboard profiles and moulding profiles.